Friday, 31 May 2019
A Leaky Scandal
Friday, 3 May 2019
On the Way Home
Calgary Airport, Alberta
3 May 2019
So are New Zealand and Canada similar? I guess in a way they are. Both are relatively new countries with stunning scenery, interesting wildlife and friendly inhabitants who enjoy the outdoor life. But the similarity ends there. Whilst New Zealand has a South Pacific - European feel, Canada leans more towards the US model than I imagine it would dare to admit. And with that comes a totally different outlook and....well vibe. Alas that’s a topic for another day.
In the meantime, we’re heading home with memories of a great trip and some regrets for the things that we didn’t have time to fit in. It’s okay, I’m sure we’ll be back, preferably in the summertime when the trails are open and we can stride out into the mountains without a care in the world....well except for the risk of an encounter with a bear of course.
Wild Wildlife
Banff National Park
Tuesday 30 April 2019
It’s fair to say that I wasn’t quite as excited to see goats or mountain sheep as my fellow passengers on the train between Vancouver and Banff. Whilst we were genuinely excited to see bears, we couldn’t quite muster the same level of excitement when goats were seen through the train window. People were so excited that the carriage nearly tipped off the rails when all the passengers, bar us, dived to one side to snap a picture of the animal. The goat, in turn, looked rather non-plussed and went about it’s business of eating the snow encrusted grass.
Nope it was bears that we were interested in. Whilst in Tofino on Vancouver Island, we booked on a boat trip to see bears in their natural habitat. And seem them we did. The Captain of the boat, a small six person craft, was fairly certain we would but couldn’t guarantee a sighting. After a quick journey into the inlet, there it was. A male black bear, scouring the shoreline at low-tide looking for food. It felt like a real privilege to watch, whilst we slowly drifted on the water, to see him going about his morning routine of looking for early spring food. Possibly even a second breakfast.
Later on the trip, as chances of a second sighting were growing dim, we came across a mother and her yearling , again wandering along the coastline looking for food. Amazing stuff. Or at least we thought so.
Later in the trip I was recounting the sightings to an assistant in a Cafe and she noted that she gets them sometimes in her garden during the night as they try to go through the trash. “Wow!” I exclaimed, adding “Doesn’t that frighten you?”. “Oh, for sure”, she replied, “It makes me think that I’m being burgled.”
It wasn’t quite the reason why I thought she should be frightened. I imagine, and I hope that I never find out, that if I were to come across a 250kg hairy mammal in my garden I’d be less worried about getting some of my valuables being stolen and more concerned about my family jewels being removed.
It was the same when I mentioned later in the conversation that we’d been excited to see a beaver. “Hhhmm, they such a nuisance aren’t they?” came the response, adding “They sometimes dam the river at the bottom of our garden and flood our neighbours.” Deflated I murmured something about being impressed anyway, particularly as they were much better at damming rivers than I was at their age!
So Canada, let’s make a deal. I’m happy to let you get excited about the sight of goats and in return please let me get excited about large mammals. Providing it’s from a safe distance of course!
Thank You for Not Smoking
Horseshoe Bay - Nanaimo
Tuesday 23 April 2019
Whilst the debate over the abolition of smoking in public spaces rages on in the UK, Canada has taken another step and has legalised the use of Marijuana. But before I get too far into this blog, I should state that I have no particular leanings either way on the legalisation of cannabis. It’s not something that I have spent a lot of time considering. So to me, trading smoking in enclosed public spaces for getting high in a public park seems reasonable. I’m not going to do either so that’s as far as my internal deliberation got. Now if they were to allow it in the workplace I might be interested! It would certainly make Mondays go with a bit more swing.
Despite my fence sitting stance, I can say that it does give Vancouver a rather pungent odour. Rather sweet and sickly and it takes a while to get used to it being normal.
It doesn’t seem to have had a negative effect on the streets of Vancouver. It would be interesting to see what the crime statistics are since the legalisation, or for that matter the level of pizza sales in the downtown area. There are a lot of pizza joints, I wonder if they have always been there?
It also lead to a rather unusual request.
We were setting off from Horseshoe Bay on a car ferry towards Vancouver Island, and had just settled down to our second breakfast (well it was 10am!), when the ship’s tannoy crackled into life. “May we remind you that this is a no smoking vessel and that smoking is prohibited anywhere on the vessel. This includes the outdoor areas. Could the person who is smoking marijuana on the deck please stop because we can smell it in the bridge and the Captain is getting stoned, and believe you me this is not something that anyone wants. Just to be on the safe side, however, we have ordered pizzas.”
Well it was something like that. I may have misheard. Thankfully we got to our destination in one piece and without any mishaps, although the vessel did seem to take a rather circulatory route!
Automobiles for the People
Tofino
Tuesday 23 April 2019
Yes for sure, this is certainly a car dominated society. They are everywhere and they are huge! Vancouver, our first destination on the trip, may be going through a public transport revolution, there are still cars everywhere. The city fringes are dominated by shopping malls with accompanying acres of parking. The streets are super wide, many accommodating six lanes of traffic. As a pedestrian, just trying to cross the constant stream of cars can be a risky proposition. And if anyone thinks Auckland streets are hazardous, Vancouvers are on a whole new another level. Even if you do get the light to cross the intersection, you still need to give way to turning vehicles. Further afield, simply put, you not going to get far without one.
So rent one we did. Due to the unknown territory, we opted to hire a mid-sized SUV. Not for the space of course, but for the safety features we thought wee might need when negotiating mountain roads. To us, a mid-sized SUV wasn’t a seven seat 3.0L tank. This thing was huge. Or at least it was in comparison to what we thought we were hiring. By North American standards, however, it was tiny.
It’s fair to say that we were a little apprehensive about driving in Canada. Not because we were afraid of the standard of the infrastructure, but because we hadn’t driven on the ‘wrong’ side of the road for nearly five years. Well not in a car the size of a tank anyway.
Luckily, my skills had been honed by years of driving in fictitious American cities in numerous video games. Actually, thinking about the carnage that I typically caused from my absent mindedness, that perhaps shouldn’t be taken a reliable indication of my driving skills whilst in a foreign country. Nevertheless, once we got used to the road rules, or rather the lack of them, we soon got the hang of it.
Actually, whilst I’m on the subject of road rules what is it with Canadian speed limits? 80kph (50mph) on a modern highways seems to be woefully slow and it was only through the selective use of cruise control that I was able to stay anywhere near the posted speed limit. But we were on holiday, is a beautiful part of the world and absolutely in no rush to get anywhere quickly. All good.
And so, as the asphalt rolled under our not insubstantial wheels, I got to thinking. I know, but still. British Columbia has given, and I assume by extension so does the rest of Canada, a huge amount of land to the motor vehicle. Small towns are split apart by six lane highways, parking lots dominate town planning and pedestrians are strictly second class. We should probably be grateful for even getting footpaths, even if they do suddenly end for no apparent reason.
Is this then, the natural conclusion of a car dominated society? Is this where New Zealand will end up if we continue down the same road? Pun totally intended. Let’s hope common sense prevails. It’s a real shame that we couldn’t have made this journey by train and really have enjoyed the experience. And just as that thought left my mind, I spotted the exit we were looking for, indicated and pulled off to the right. Only another 150km to go and we’d be where we needed to be.
Above: Our mid-sized SUV third from the right
Sir, is this Scenery?
Banff, Alberta
Tuesday 30 April 2019
My Dad once told me about a school trip he organised to take some kids from Peterlee to a nearby country park. Once the bus got beyond the outskirts of the town and as urban buildings gave way to green fields, one of the kids pointed out of the window to the countryside and asked “Sir, is this scenery?”.
Well goodness knows that pupil would make of the scenery in Canada, well British Columbia and Alberta to be precise - I can’t vouch for whatever lies to the east of the Rockies.
Vancouver, our arrival point, is a fairly pretty city. It’s no Auckland but nice nonetheless. An I a similar way it has harbours, a few islands and typical coastal city type facilities. Just like Auckland Domain, Vancouver has Stanley Park to provide some greenery bathing. We really enjoyed our few days here and it’s really only once you get beyond the city boundary that the landscape really explodes into life.
We spent a few idle days in the mountain resort of Whistler and despite the low clouds and snow fall it is in an undeniably stunning setting. Were it not for the dozens of snowboarders milling around it could be Keswick.
A short cable car ride up the mountain really opened up the vista and we were only thankful that we had decided to get a return ticket and didn’t have to negotiate the snow-clad precipitous slopes to get back to our hotel. It would’ve been quick but not necessarily pain free.
Equally, the train we took from Vancouver to Banff travelled mostly on a single track and spent a great deal of the time hugging the side of a mountain like its life depended upon it. Which it probably did, as did ours. The train, dwarfed by the snow-capped peaks that towered above us served to emphasise that this was scenery scaled up by a factor of “Wow!”.
Admittedly, New Zealand has similar views but the lack of infrastructure means that you will need serious kit to see the best of them. Not to mention a pretty good level of fitness and a keen sense of direction. Not for the faint-hearted and certainly not views you can see whilst sipping Sauvignon Blanc and eating cheesy nibbles.
And just like New Zealand, British Columbia is blessed with an expanse of coastline on the Pacific, and with that beaches, harbours and miles of coastline to explore. Sitting on a beach or bench and gazing out to sea has to be one of the more grounding and calming ways to while away some time.
In just a few weeks we have seen beautiful coastline, rugged mountains and glacial blue rivers. Canada, or at least this part of it, is certainly a beautiful country and is reminiscent of New Zealand. As with all things one is encouraged to offer an opinion. So which is better? Hhhmmm, I’d rather not say.