Maybe that is euphoria speaking, as I have just returned to the hotel and had my first warm shower in four days, but I don't think so. The 42km route climbs through some stunning Andean scenery, tropical forests and mountain passes before dropping down to the ruins of the old Inca settlement at Machu Picchu.
Tempted? Before you make up your mind please permit me to share some of the things that I have learned....
The High Life
Most of the trek takes place at a seriously high altitude, in comparison to where most people live anyway. For those that spend their lives at or near sea level just moderate exercise at these heights is.... well let's say interesting.
The Inca Trail never drops below 2,430m above sea level and that is only on the last day. Most of the route is above 3,000m and the highest point is a lung-busting 4,215m. I found that walking uphill at these heights made me feel like an asthmatic ant with a particularly heavy bag of shopping.
The only way to deal with it, besides allowing yourself a few days to acclimatise before putting on your walking boots, is to take it easy and listen to your body. The last few steps to the top of the route I was reduced to walking a few steps and then resting. Frustratingly, the top never seemed to get any closer despite shouts of encouragement from my fellow trekkers.
At 4,215m this is a high point of the trip.... literally!
Step Class
Eddie Cochran got it seriously wrong when he suggested that there were three steps to heaven. I lost count after the first few hours on the first day of just how many steps I had climbed. Certainly more than three and I was nowhere near heaven at this point. The Incas certainly liked their steps and I you don't then this hike is not for you. Steps up and steps down, many at a near vertiginous angle. Looking down at some of these flights of stairs, I wondered to myself exactly where I would stop if I tripped. I didn't like the answer I gave to myself.
One of the less steep sections
These go on for over two hours whilst descending 1,000m
Stick and Stones....well mostly Stones
And when there weren't steps to negotiate, the majority of the path surface was covered in stones. All different sizes and at different angles. The Incas could build amazingly straight walls but their path making skills left something to be desired. Maybe they should have invested in some Yorkstone paving?
The unevenness of the surface wouldn't be a problem except for the precipitous drops at the side of the path. Jutting rocks and awkward angles are just waiting to catch out the unsuspecting hiker.....
Narrow ledge with drop just out of shot.....but it's there!
Travel Light
Most people, and I was no exception, undertake the journey as part of an organised group. Whilst the porters carry most of the load, you still need to carry the essentials for a day of mountainous hiking; warm clothing, waterproofs etc. Add to this two litres of water, essential to keep altitude sickness at bay, and the weight of the pack soon adds up. Think twice before chucking in a make-up bag or that 'essential' guidebook to Peru. Every ounce counts.
Supermen aka The Porters
And whilst we are in the subject of loads, a mention has to go to the Porters. These guys are amazing. Not only do they carry the tents, mattresses, sleeping bags and spare clothing of the trekkers, they also carry four days worth of food, seats, marquees, plates, cutlery, napkins and even table cloths. Impressive enough, but then consider that they run ahead to make sure everything is set up for your arrival at the lunch stops and the campsite at the end of each day.
The applause they all give when you arrive at each resting point seems a little misplaced and I couldn't help but applaud back at the sheer amount of effort they had put in. These guys really are superhuman. The only thing missing were capes.
Which brings me onto the sensitive subject of tipping. Whatever value you decide to put on their efforts, and it is a personal choice, just remember that they do this on a minimum wage. Each Porter receives 200 Peruvian Soles for the four day trip, or to put it in an easier perspective, around £20. Feeling generous? You should be!
The whole team
The Magic Tent
Ahhh, the Magic Tent. You will develop a love-hate relationship with this piece of camping equipment for 'Magic Tent' is the affectionate name give to the toilet tent. Well I say toilet, but you are faced with when unzipping the door, other than a rather fruity aroma, is two buckets. One for liquid and the other for more solid deposits. Admittedly they do both have seats, but the effect is still the same; you pee or poo into a bucket.
The morning ritual, at least for me, was always approached with some trepidation. Not knowing what to expect when the door was unzipped and the respective lids lifted, and the sheer delight when it became apparent that you were the first to christen the receptacles. It's the small things in life. Learning to take a two stage approach to evacuations took some getting used too - it was important not to mix liquids and solids - and unnecessary prolonged the time spent in the Magic Tent. This was not a place to linger so banish any thoughts of getting through another chapter of your book or finishing another level of Candy Crush. Get in and get out. As quickly as possible.
Rooms with a View
An honourable mention has to go to the campsites. They are spectacular. Not in terms of facilities - there aren't any - but in terms of their locations. Being perched high up in the mountains at 3,000m whilst watching the sun set is a magical experience. When it isn't raining that is.
The campsites at Paq'aymayo and Winayhuayna are something to behold. What they lack in physical space, they more than make up for in view. Just be careful when you exit your tent - the narrow ledges that are used for the camping ground are not very forgiving for the unwary. Just as well that there are no bars or shops selling alcohol.
View from the camping ledge at Winayhuayna
Early to Bed, Early to Rise
If anyone is thinking about catching up on sleep whilst trekking, this is not the route for you. For most of the mornings were were up and hiking by 7:00am whilst the Porters dismantled the campsite. This was not a problem as, mainly due to the lack of daylight and sheer exhaustion from the previous day, we were tucked up in our sleeping bags by 7:00pm.
The last day however, the final approach to Machu Picchu, we were woken at 3:30am and on the trail by 5:30am. Hardly a restful holiday.
The early mornings were made somewhat easier by being served coca tea in bed. Well in sleeping bags anyway. This was usually followed by a bowl of hot water to wash away the cobwebs. Coca tea is an essential part of the day. Not only does it contain a fair helping of caffeine, it also allegedly wards off altitude sickness. Does it? Well I drank plenty of it and was absolutely fine so maybe there is some truth in it. And yes, coca tea uses coca leaves, the exact same ingredient to cocaine, albeit in much higher concentrations.
Coca is used in a whole range of products and I munched my way through several packets of coca toffees. Purely for the prevention of altitude sickness, honest.
Guiding Lights
Each trekking party, whether it's part of an organised group or not, must have an official guide for the duration of the trip. Not only will these keep you from getting into grief, they are also an essential source of information. Our guide, Victor, was on hand to answer any question, no matter how trivial or obvious, and helped make the kilometres tick by.
He was also on hand to help one of our group when he got serious altitude sickness. He went a funny shade of blue, developed a crushing headache and had to lie on the ground whilst the worst of the symptoms passed. Victor, and his assistant guide Katy, nursed him back to health over the course of the day and managed to get him to camp that night in one piece, shaken from the experience maybe but ready to tackle the next day.
Road to Ruin
One of the most amazing things about the trail is that every couple of hours there is another Inca settlement to enjoy. Rain or shine. These places never fail to amaze as the sheer majesty of these hillside structures leave a permanent impression. Yes they may not be as old as Roman settlements but what they lack in age they make up in sheer ingenuity.
Questions circle; why here? How did they transport the store? How did they plan the site? I know that is the engineer in me talking but these mountain settlements are wonderous.
Inca ruins at Winaywayna
Machu Picchu
At last, I hear you wonder. Although the end game of this whole adventure are the magnificent ruins of Machu Picchu, it is the journey that's the most important. Yes, a cliche maybe, but it's true.
But having said that, nothing quite prepares you for the first sight of this place. We arrived at the Sun Gate at around 6:30am and there, laid out before us was the once great city of Machu Picchu. Jaws dropped and tears welled up, partly because of the exertion that had been expended over the last few days but mostly because of the awesome sight. There is no other word that would be appropriate.
Luckily, despite it being the wet season, it was a clear morning and we could see the whole of Machu Picchu and beyond it the Andes Mountains and Amazon rainforest. Spectacular and frightening drops were visible on each side of the settlement with the river and rail line far below.
Although we were there early, visitors who had opted to get the bus from Machu Picchu town were already filing through the entrance gates. It was hard not to view them with some disdain for they hadn't struggled over the mountain passes and fought altitude sickness. Ah well, each to their own.
Whichever mode of transportation you decide to take, and from wherever you have travelled, the journey is worth it and I can't think of another historical site that invoked the same emotion. Stonehenge perhaps or maybe Hadrian's Wall.
The Inca settlement of Machu Picchu
Seriously impressive stonework.
The End of the Line
Finally, an honourable mention has to go to Machu Picchu town. It is overshadowed, both physically and reputationally by the ruins above, but it is well worth spending a few hours here before hearing back to Cusco. It is reminiscent of a Swiss alpine village, such as Murren or Wengen, and is a great place to relax and mull over the achievements of the past few days whilst enjoying a drink and a hot meal. Just try and get a seat somewhere near an open window as you may put fellow diners off their food with your personal aroma!
From here, trains run back up the valley to Cusco over a relaxing four hour journey. Sit back and enjoy the ride.
The only thing missing is the sound of cow bells
So there you have it. Still tempted to give it a go? You should be. Despite the basic facilities, altitude early mornings and exhaustion you will experience it is still a worthwhile trip and something that I won't forget in a hurry.
You will meet some interesting people along the way, see fabulous views (even in the rain) and explore magnificent Inca ruins, marvelling at their ingenuity and skill.
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