Thursday 28 March 2024

Regional Perks

We were once told, just hours before we flew out to New Zealand for the start of our adventure, that Auckland was a dour place. Not worthy of a visit. The irony that this unsolicited opinion was given under leaden grey skies and just before the heavens had opened and hammering rain commenced was not lost on us. We’d been to Auckland before and were confident, well reasonably confident, that we hadn’t made a mistake. Had we?

Fast forward ten years and I can say without one shred of doubt that Auckland is not dour. In fact, in my honest opinion, it’s one of the greenest (and bluest)  cities I’ve had the pleasure to visit. Find an elevated view across the city and the first thing that strikes you is just how many areas appear to be unbuilt upon. Admittedly a lot of those are extinct volcanoes but hey, green is green. And then there is the gulf, it's shimmering blue adds the most wonderful frame to the greenery of the city.

Perhaps the jewel in the shining crown of Tamaki Makaurau is the abundance of the regional parks. Auckland's regional parks offer diverse landscapes, from rugged coastlines to lush forests, and provide numerous recreational activities such as hiking, picnicking, and birdwatching. With over 26 parks covering approximately 45,000 hectares, they offer a natural escape within the city limits, making Auckland unique in having such extensive parkland so accessible to its residents and visitors alike. Dour? I think not.

We had planned to visit all of the parks in our time here but it didn’t work out like that. We started well, spending free weekends at a new location, but then we settled in and life here became….well…..normal. Slowly as the months passed we just stopped visiting. 

Which is shame because when we do visit we are reminded just how wonderful they are. This weekend, for example, we detoured to Shakespeare Regional Park located at the end of the Whangaparoa peninsula - which is about as hard to get to as it is to pronounce! This wasn’t our first visit here, but my goodness what a wonderful place. Being off peak and mid-week we virtually had the place to ourselves.

We parked up, bring mindful not to disturb the Pūkeko, set off on one of the many walking tracks. Although quite short at only 5km, the chosen track would take us to a view point on the peninsula which allowed a stunning panoramic view out across the gulf. There is something really comforting about heading off into the 'countryside' knowing that you are not wandering that far from the car whilst being within the boundary of the city. Oh and having well made and marked footpaths to follow of course!

The panoramic view from the lookout is definitely worth the short walk


From there is was all downhill…not quite…but mostly. For such a short walk the views are spectacular and the scenery changes from bush to farmland to coastal forest and finally beach. 

Looking out towards the gulf with Rangitoto in the distance. 

The last 500m is along the beach. 


Perhaps the most surprising thing is not that this is all free, but it takes place within the Auckand city boundary. All you have to do to experience this is to remember to visit - and in our case follow the red marker posts. 

We’ve got a few weeks left here, so maybe we can get  a few more ticked off. Perhaps Atū Creek on the shores of Kaipara Harbour. It is Auckland’s third-largest regional park at 843 hectares. Its size means there is ample farmland, native forest, wetlands and beaches to explore on foot, bike or horseback. Maybe not the latter. 

Or Tawhitokino? Tawhitokino is regarded by some as the most beautiful beach in Auckland but is only accessible at low tide. This means a trip to this small coastal park – at the end of Kawakawa Bay Coast Road – needs careful planning. Surely we can manage that?

Whichever Regional Park we decide to visit with our increasingly limited remaining time, I can guarantee that it won’t be dour. Dour? Auckland? Definitely not.

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